If the walls are substantial (brick, concrete or stone) then you can hang stuff but it needs care to drill through the render and into the substrate and to use appropriate length and style of plugs to hold fastenings into the wall. ![]() The chances of picking up the studs underneath is rather hit and miss (and the spacing may not suit you) and they may not be in such good condition anyway. If the walls are insubstantial (I know all about lath and plaster) you are right out of luck except for using stands or ceiling hangers. The second aspect is how many pictures do you want to hang. Lucky it was plasterboard and not old render.Īs others have said the substance of the walls under the render is key. Stainless is available in a more limited range of options. With the exception of light items we needed to drill the block work and use galvanised anchor bolts sized for the weight. Our prior home was masonry block with plasterboard. This has no structural strength, and as noted can fracture or loose the bond to the structural brick wall. It does sound as if your current anchors are only secured in the render. It’s understandable some tradies may not want to take the risk of disturbing the render and hammer drilling the brickwork for the anchor bolts. Any system of rails or discrete hooks is going to need to penetrate the render and the brickwork. The previous posts advice re the condition of your brick work is relevant, as is the condition of the render. We considered this system for our current 19th century home, and decided to stay with timber picture rails. Also available as ceiling rails for memory. Not low cost in the example, but installation is part of the service. We could re-install a wooden picture rail but our builder friend is unenthused -Īs well as wooden picture rails (traditional) there are a number of modern low impact alternatives based on aluminium rails. We have a lot of framed artwork so some are quite heavy. Check if there are limitations before considering options. Is the house heritage listed? This may also impact on what can and can’t be done. Stainless steel to avoid corrosion issues. If solid, use a deep (75mm+ to avoid pressure of the wall surface and push the load into the walls brick base) stainless steel dynabolt to attach a fixing hook. If we hang pictures on the walls, we plan to check integrity of the wall by lightly tapping and listening to the sound make. Required some preparation and plastering to fix. ![]() One room the wall surface about 1.5m X 1m was detached and came way when nails were removed. We have had issues of historical picture hooks/nails being hammered into the walls causing sheeting off of the wall surface. In our own house we have a lime mud render which is over a very old (~160 year) brick base. The hammering can cause fracture or weakening of the wall finish, with corrosion of the hook causing the surface to ‘pop’ off the wall. An example is hammering hooks into a finish which is inflexible and porous. The type of hanging method could also impact on the finish resulting in further damage in the long run. ![]() The suitable method will be dependent on the walls construction and finish. The surface finish may not have good attachment to underlying base, causing sheeting off of the surface If the base is bricks, what condition are the bricks in and can they breath? If they are sealed internally and externally they may become soft over time adding to problems with the attachment of the wall finish. Layers of newer finish over an older finish? The hook may only be part of the problem or highlights underlying problems.
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